Location of Cage/Hutch

Tips to consider for Location Guinea Pig Cage or Hutch

There are many things to consider when choosing a location for your guinea pigs home.  Heat can be dangerous for your guinea pig so avoid placing in direct sunlight or extreme heat.  Temperature above 85 degrees F are dangerous especially in a humid environment.  As guinea pigs are nocturnal animals, they do require  sufficient sunlight that does not shine on them directly.

  • Make sure the location is not drafty or windy as they can become sick.
  • A well ventilated cage that provides fresh air.
  • Keep out of damp areas, as dampness is a killer for guinea pigs.
  • Out of the way of excessive noise
  • Convenient and secure, where other pets cannot come into contact

If you are considering a outdoor hutch,  please ensure your outdoor temperatures are suitable for you guinea pig.  Contact the American Rabbit Breeders association for further information and on how to construct a safe and sturdy hutch for your pet.

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Buy Guinea Pigs

1 Piggy, 2 Piggy, 3 Piggies, More!

Perhaps one guinea pig is about right to keep you well entertained, but you might think about buying two or more:

  • The reason why is they are social animals and they adore the company of other guinea pigs. If left alone they will get lonely and their health and well being could suffer.

A guinea will need attention from you and if you only have the one, as they can get lonely really fast and therefore will cry for your attention. Believe me they will cry much more often for you to show them this attention. However if they have a playmate or partner to help keep them entertained, you won’t have to spend as much time with them.

The Sex of the Matter

You might decide to get two girls, two boys or one of each.

  • If you are just going to be buying one cavy then the sex will not matter all that much.
  • Females, by nature, are going to be more quite and less active, while the male will have much more energy and will require more exercising.
  • It’s a common misconception with the male cavy that if you place two in the same cage that they will fight themselves to the death. While this sounds extremely violent and wrong, nothing could be further from the truth.

Provide a large enough cage!

If you place two males together they will fight if they do not have enough space in their cage. However if you provide them with plenty of room so that each male has their own territory and space then they will live quite content with one another.

  • You also need to remember that if you have two male piggies that you cannot have a female guinea pig in the cage.
  • Do not introduce a female to them.
  • This will make the male guinea pigs fight with one another to show who is the more dominant of the two. If this were to happen you would have to remove the female and the male loser from the cage immediately as the winner will be so dominant at this point he will keep the poor little loser away from the water and food.

Now if you place two females in the same cage along with the other you might find that they will “argue” over water and food. (Now please men, no joking here about us women). Since females are so gentle and quiet it is really unlikely that a major fight would ever happen.

Best combination

  • If you place a female and male together in the cage they will actually get along the best. Why? The female will know that the male is the more dominant of the two and the male will accept the female as she is and will act very peaceful with her.
  • It’s great to have a peaceful environment but there is one problem to having a male and female together. Yes, that’s it, puppies. Puppy is the term used for baby guinea pigs. If a male and female are left with no attention and unattended this could and will happen. It’s easier and best to have the male fixed by the vet.

The female pig has a cycle which last only 18 days and the gestation period for new baby guinea pigs is only two months. So naturally it is in all likelihood that the female guinea pig will and can give birth to absolutely hundreds of little puppies in a years time.

Most pet stores will have one cage of guinea pigs or possibly two or more. This depends on the size of the pet store. With the piggies giving birth often there is a demand for the puppies that they produce.

If you are going to buy more than one then make sure you choose two from the same cage. This will lower the risk of fighting after you have brought them home.  Tips to think about before  you buy guinea pigs!

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Breeding Guinea Pigs

Many people choose not to breed their guinea pigs because they just don’t have the extra room it requires
for the little puppies. Puppies is the term used for little baby guinea pigs. Other people realize that they
also don’t have the time or money for keeping the little puppies.

Check the local competition

In order to ensure that you can easily sell your new baby guinea pigs when the time comes it’s best that
there not be many breeders in your area.

  • If there are to many of them then there will be a lot of competition.
  • This will make it much harder to sell them.

A knowledgeable Guinea Pig Breeder

Make sure when it’s time to sell your guinea pigs that you are knowledgeable about them and can speak fluently about them.

  • This way you can explain exactly what they will need to do once they have taken their new puppy home.
  • You should also provide them with a list of things that guinea pigs can and cannot eat.
  • No one likes their guinea pigs to be poisoned.

Have Good homes ready for adoption

It’s not surprising that thousands of guinea pigs die every year because their owners have been unable to care for them.

  • Many as well let them breed excessively and do not take proper care of the puppies.
  • It’s also a very good idea before deciding to breed your guinea pigs that you already have a family or families in mind that would like to have them.
  • This will also give you peace of mind that the new babies will be going to good homes and have the care they will need.

The Mating

You should wait until your female is about 4-6 months old before letting her give birth. Just as in nature you will need to provide your guinea pigs with plenty of extra space for this. The female cycle is about 16-18 days but however the female will only be able to mate for about 8-24 hours of this time.

Once the male guinea pig becomes aroused he will lower his head and walk over towards the female. He will make his steps carefully and not make them random as this is an act in which to entice the female. To show his “love” if you will.

Do not be nervous about the sound in which they make. It is a very distinct rumbling sound. The males rear will even sway side to side several times while walking. Males will even at times do a mating dance for the female to show his interest. He will place his front legs on anything that is available to him and move to attract the female. This often times will include the male to swing side to side, swishing and swaying around.

Give your guinea pigs privacy

While I do realize (as you will too) that this is very funny to watch, it’s best if you leave the room and give privacy. This ritual has been working for hundreds of years and has evolved into the best the species can do. If the female is interested in the male she’s going to show some anxiety and excitement as well as maybe even let out a squeal or two. These squeals will grow louder and louder as the male guinea pig moves closer to her.

If she is not interested in this ritual she is either no longer in heat or just that it’s not the right time any
longer in her cycle. This will make her bite and snap at the male and even she might run away. If the male is overly persistent, she might urinate on his face to get her message across.

If by chance the female is ready but the male is not aroused, the female may walk towards him with the same type of steps the male uses with her head down and her butt all up in the air.

At times the female has even been known to back up against the male to show the sign that she wants him to mount her. This is not at all unusual so do not be frightened if you happen to see this. Remember, they DO know what they are doing.

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Guinea Pig Cage

These are types of guinea pig cages. A healthy guinea pig requires a cage at least two foot by four feet or larger (inside cage measurement) to accommodate room for them to run around and explore.  Guinea pigs need ample room to run around the parameter of it’s cage, free of obstacles.  This may seem like a large size cage, however it’s still quite small from the guinea pigs perspective.

These cages are old style, below is a video where you can learn how to build  your own pet’s cage, and customize it for their suitability, it’s not too difficult and your pet will appreciate it!

Building a custom Guinea pig cage, with plenty of room!

There are some great new styles available that can easily be built and customized. How to build a cage for your pet is illustrated step by step in this video. It is a very cost effective way of building a custom size home for your pets. Note the precautions below is your are planning to build a C&C cage.


If you are planning to Build a custom C&C cage

  • Be sure that the grids are NO farther apart than 1.5 inches.
    If they are too wide, you pet could stick it’s head through and become stuck, injured and face a possible life threatening situation. Avoid this by ensuring the spaces between does not allow their head to fit through.
  • Remember is you have young guinea pigs, or pups, using this style of cage the openings might be too big for their tiny size.
  • Place cardboard or coroplast at least one foot up from the bottom of the cage, all around the inner parameter.
    Or double cage, by putting all around the outside another C&C cage and in between place the cardboard or coroplast, on all sides,creating a solid wall of about 1 foot in height.

It’s always best to think of your guinea pig safety BEFORE hand!

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Grooming Your Guinea Pig

Guinea pigs are extremely low maintenance pet and are easy to take care of but do require day to day care:

Trimming The Nails

To avoid your guinea pigs nails becoming long, painful for them and growing into their foot pad they will
require trimming.

  • Having on hand rocks, rough stones, bricks and other similar surfaces can help your guinea pig wear down their nails and which helps by not having to clip them as often.
  • Bricks without holes in them are the best and cheapest solution.

In the guinea pigs nails are blood vessels, commonly called or referred to as the ‘quick’.

  • Clear nails allow you to easily see them. It is basically, the pink area that runs from the bone to the toe.
  • In black nails is is impossible to see or spot easily without holding a bright light behind them.
  • With clear or white nails, just cut above the pinkish area.

With black nails, often owners will trim their guinea pigs nails taking very little at a time and doing the trimming more often. With time and practice, it’s not impossible to cut a longer black nail without cutting the quick.

Quick stop on hand

If the quick is cut by accident, the bleeding will need to be stopped. Many of the pet stores sell ‘Quick

Stop’, which is made to stop the bleeding altogether.

The squirmy Guinea Pig

Your guinea pig is likely to squirm a lot during this process.  It’s a lot easier if you have help to cut the nail.

  • Wrap your guinea pig in a towel, and make sure the feet are sticking out.
  • Have one person hold the guinea pig while the other cuts the nails.

If you’re going solo, place your guinea pig on a tennis racket so that their nails are sticking out, and cover them so that they feel more ’secure’.   Or hold your guinea pig securely by it’s rump with it’s back leaning on you or in your lap.

  • It’s good to get help with trimming until you are comfortable doing the trimming yourself.

The Guinea Pig’s Teeth -Chew blocks

Your guinea pig has two incisors in the top front of their mouths that grow constantly. You will need to take you pet to the Vet if they grow too long as they won’t be able to eat.  To help keep the teeth in check:

  • Have chew blocks readily available in their cage is important.
  • A chew block is made of untreated and unstained wood available from the pet store made for animals that chew. They are readily available and inexpensive.

Inspect their teeth to make sure none chipped or broken as that can effect your guinea pig. If something has broken, or fallen out,  you need to contact your vet and have them look at your guinea pig.

Brushing

You should regularly brush your guinea pig to keep their coat clean, shining, and healthy. For long haired guinea pigs, daily brushing is vital – for short haired guinea pigs, a few times a week works well.

  • Use a soft baby’s brush, with gentle bristles, as this will make your guinea pig truly enjoy it.
  • For longer fur that might get tangled, try a metal greyhound comb – this will remove all of the excess hair and lessen shedding.

Bathing

Let’s get one thing clear – guinea pigs don’t like to be bathed.

  • They become highly stressed when you do decide to dunk them in water, and this can lower their immune system.
  • Many guinea pigs go their entire lives without bathing, and that’s just fine for them.

Unless you’ve been instructed by the vet, or your guinea pig got into something dirty and smelly, you do not have to bathe your guinea pig.

If you do have to bathe him, choose a shampoo that’s light on his skin – either something made for kittens (Not cats) or a baby shampoo. Only use a medicated shampoo if that is recommended by a vet.

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Guinea Pig Home Coming

What to do the first few days

In the first few days that your cavy (s) has been brought to their new home is a rather kinda scary time for them. It’s all new and they need time to adjust and get used to their new home. It may be tempting to want to cuddle them, but it’s good to overcome the temptation until they have adjusted a bit.

Here are some tips to help your new piggie (s) adjust and settle in:

  • Give them 3 to 4 days to adjust to their new home area and surroundings
  • Remember this is stressful to them, try to avoid loud noises
  • Avoid hovering over and around them
  • A little patience goes along way!

Take note:

If your bringing home more than one guinea at the same time, it’s good to provide each with a great area to hide for each one, within their cage. This gives them a place they can call their own and somewhere to hide if a fight should break out!

Avoid casting shadows over their cage!

  • Just by hanging around and looming over your new piggies home can cast shadows over them and
    scare them!
  • Shadows reminds your pet that it could be danger for them, like a eagle swooping down to attack
    and they are scared!

If you want to observe your pet, try kneeling down beside the cage at eye level. This position allows your
pet to see you more as a friend and less of an threat.

Bribery!

The best way to get your pet to trust you is, without a doubt, bribery. Sound crazy? Perhaps. But it’s true! Bribing the small animal that you want to love and adore is the best way for trust.

What are the best things to bribe your pet with?

Treats, of course! And it’s easy because the guinea pig has so many things it loves to eat, so there is no shortage of bribing tools! In the book – Chapter Five there is alot more information on your pets favorite things to eat.

What is the Best Bribing Ways?

  • Are you ready to bribe your new pet right into your open arms, good!
  • First start with giving your pet a view of the delicious treat you’re offering them, then place it
    in the open door of the cage. Sit just still outside, with your hands on your lap, and wait.
  • Give your pet a bit of time and if they haven’t come to get the treat, carefully and slowly pick
    it up again, close the cage door, and leave. Try this several times a day until they get the idea that they
    have to come and get it.
  • Now each time they come, move a little closer to your pet’s cage. This slowly allows your pet
    to get used to your presence.
  • After a while, and still timid, you pet will take the treat from your hand. if you are patient and give your pet enough. With time, they will welcome taking the treat from you, and won’t be afraid to run
    and jump in excitement when he sees you coming.

How to Pick Your Guinea Pig Up…

If you try luring your cavy with treats in order to be able to pick him up you will damage the cause the bond of trust that you have created to become damaged. It’s better to gain their trust by stroking and talking to your new cavy. Show him/her that you are not a scary predator, but are instead a true friend. You have to remember that to your pet you are someone that if you were out in the wilds would possibly eat this poor little fellow.

Holding Your Guinea Pig

It is very important that when you are picking up your pet to be extremely careful! Because of the size and shape of their bodies you could easily hurt their small lungs if you hold them to hard. Very gently place your hand under your pets stomach and remember to support his rear when lifting him up. Never
hold them to hard and instead carry them ever so gently. Please remember as well to support their entire body when doing so. It is important to remember to carry them with tender loving care. If you are young you should always make sure an adult is with you when handling or picking up your new piggie. Since they have small bone structures they could easily be hurt if you were to drop them.

Relaxing Your Pet

Doesn’t it sound like a lot of fun to be holding your cavy in your lap while watching TV and cartoons?
After a bit of practice you will be able to do this but it will take a little time. The first time you hold your pet you need to be in a quiet room, also make sure that there is nothing going on around you. Have your special treat ready and see if you can get him to eat it while sitting on your lap.

If you are patient, he will do this and then you’ll see he’s going to love it when you hold him. In fact he
might be start squealing when he sees you coming near him.

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Guinea Pig Hutch

Now there are a number of hutches available suitable to comfortably house your guinea pig and consider your pets needs when selecting one. This home should provide shelter, ability to move around and a safe hiding spot.

Size of the Hutch

The bigger the hutch the better, so consider where you will be locating your pet’s hutch and allow for the biggest size possible. Guinea pigs require plenty of room to move around, and thinking about your pets size is something to take in to consideration.

  • A bare minimum would be 2 foot by 4 foot area for each adult guinea pig, however it’s better for your pet to give them more space. An over cramped guinea pig can become depressed and will be fouled quickly, leaving the pet in unsanitary conditions.
  • Make sure that the hutch you choose you can safely reach into it and access the inside for cleaning.
  • Provide you pet with a secluded and separate sleeping area that is at least one and a half feet long and six inches in height and width.

Types of Hutch Materials

Most hutch material consist of either wood/wire, wire or metal/wire.  Each type has it’s pros and cons.

Wood hutches usually are made of a quality wood avoiding press board, and tend to stay cooler in the summer and warmer in the winter.  They often have a door with wire mesh, can be attractive.  Cons of a wooden hutch are:

  • wood will rot
  • guinea pigs love to chew and if it isn’t protected with wire they can literally chew it
  • wood tends to soak up more urine and requires more cleaning.

Metal hutches can tend to absorb heat in the summer and be cold in the winter.  They are easier to clean and tend to last a long time if good construction is used.

Providing your guinea pig with a good quality flooring is important to heath.   Make sure that at least one third of the flooring is solid, flat and porous surface.  This gives your pet relief from standing on a wire floor. If the hutch does have a  Wire mesh, the wire  should not be NO larger than one inch by two inches, sturdy galvanized wire and avoid chicken coop wire.

When purchasing a hutch, consider legs or having the hutch at waist height as this is better for ventilation and an easier height to clean.

Burkes back yard has a plan to build a guinea pig hutch to learn more about Burkes…

When considering commercial hutches, measure the inside measurements, to ensure there is the appropriate amount of space for your guinea pig.

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Guinea Pigs Breeds

Types of Guinea Pigs Breeds

Abyssinian Guinea Pig

Abyssinian-One of the oldest breeds is known as the Abyssinian and have a very distinctive look. Rosettes, or what appears like rosettes grow all over their coat. These rosettes are hair that grows out in a radiant pattern from the center point. This guinea pig has a medium length in body, rounded sides and broad and tall through the shoulders and hind legs.

Abyssinian Satin

Abyssinian Satin- This guinea pig is like the above Abyssinian but has a shiny coat.

American

American- When we think of a guinea pig, this is the most popular one that tends to come to mind. He has protruding ears that stick out from his rounded head with a smooth low lying coat.

American Satin

American Satin- The main difference from this type and American guinea pig is their coat is very shiny and
sleek.

Coronet

Coronet-This guinea pig type is the newest breen and has a long hair coat. There is a very distinct rosette that extends from the center of their ears to the very tip of the nose.

Peruvian

Peruvian- Once referred to as the Angora Guinea Pig has a long coat that touches and drags on the ground. They have a center part on their back which the hair grows down the sides, which is very dense but soft.

Peruvian Satin

Peruvian Satin- Much like the Peruvian in appearance, but their coat of hair is much silkier.

Silkie

Silkie- In England, they are often referred to as the Sheltie and named for the incredible softness of their

coat. A teardrop pattern of hair is created from hair that grows from the back of their nose and over their

back.

Silkie Satin

Silkie Satin- Very much like the silkie in hair pattern growth and length but the hair has much more of a sheen to it.

Teddie

Teddy- This breed was created from a mutation. Their coat is both dense and kinky that is short and plush sections, which is soft.

Teddy Satin

Teddy Satin – Like the Teddy, but in certain types of lighting the coat will give a sheen that glows.

White Crested

White crested – This guinea pig has a single white rosette on the crown of its head and is prodimentaly
white color.

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